Call me for a quote – 250-472-3325

New Home rough-ins:

Points to consider before rough-in of vacuum piping:

  • Plumbing and forced-air installations must at least have their respective piping and ducting runs defined.
  • Electrical work: a dedicated 15 amp circuit for the vacuum unit and the 110 volt wiring of the direct connect valve-points needs to be done by the electrician. I provide the low-voltage wiring work for the vacuum system.
  • Vacuum unit placement should be discussed when I arrive for the first look-see. For example: In some cases, modern construction of a double car garage has large supporting beams that can prevent a machine hang in some garage locations. The location of valve points should be discussed as well. Although, some areas in the home cannot have a valve placement unless planned in the initial construction, almost always I can pipe a home anyway.
  • Stairs are best vacuumed from a valve point near the bottom of the stairs.
  • Consider a valve-point in the garage, it saves the buying a “shop vac” for garage use.
  • Consider a Vacpan for the kitchen and/or mud room, this is a very handy feature for simple mass dust pickup. Vacpans can be installed in a wall or in a cabinet.
  • Do you have on-site power at the time of the vac pipe installation?
  • If your home has a legal suite, there are specific rules per the Greater Victoria municipalities, I can work with that.

Existing or renovations:

  • If relocating existing vacuum unit, the existing pipe sometimes needs to be entirely removed due to several factors :The most common is that it is very air-flow inefficient 1 ½ inch pipe, or some pipe  junctions have an incompatible design. The solution would be to remove all existing pipe or provide direct access to the the entire system (completely exposing all pipe junctions) to re-work the joints in the case of existing valid 2″ inch pipe.
  •  If retaining the old vacuum unit, is it big enough to handle the demands of an expanded floor space? I can rebuild the unit or upgrade the suction motor to facilitate this.
  • Keep in mind a dedicated 15 amp circuit is needed for a new machine. Some older homes have other electrical devices on the vacuum unit circuit, this will interfere with a new machine’s power requirements.
  •  Plan ahead for Vacpan install (is the ceiling of the floor below the intended Vacpan location opened to expose the floor joists?

What type of wall valve: Standard or Direct connect?

  • Standard: This is the most common, needs a 110 volt plugin within 6 to 8 feet for the 110 volt pigtail on the hose to power the power head.
  • Direct Connect: This type gives the simplicity of a single action of hose insertion to power the power head and vacuum unit control.


Typically, pricing is specific to the stage of install:

  • Start: To rough-in. The point where the drywall can be installed.
  • Finish: After paint. The wall inlets (valves) can be mounted and the Vacpans on the cabinets or walls. This is usually the time we hang the new machine and connect the system to your new home.

Remember when you order a system, to include a direct connect hose if you want the use of the direct connect wall inlet feature, otherwise a standard 110 volt pig-tail hose will still work. I can manage this, however.